This is a blogg on our Macwester 26 sailing Yacht....
Firstly the Macwester 26 yacht Specs and details
The original Macwester. Design commenced on the 1st
July ’1964; The first boat at The London Boat Show. Had Immediate
success with unusually large beam & high internal
volume. 12 firm orders taken at the show, price £1490 with
or £1695 with a Vire engine. Choices of rig (standard
or tall) and 3 internal layouts (standard amidships galley, aft
galley, & dinette). The Macwester 26 Sailed
ok but prone to weather helm and poor windward performance largely as a
shallow keels and wide beam preventing close sheeting
of the jib. 466 of the class built by September
1972 when the moulds ceremoniously broken up.
Produced: 1967 to 1972 No Built: M 466 Keel: TK
Berths: 4/5 LOA: 26’0” 7.92m LWL: 21’0” 6.4m
Beam: 9’ 3” 2.79m Draft: 2’ 9” 0.84m Disp: 6720lb
3048kg Ball: 2265lb 1027kg Sail: 300ft2 20.9m2
I was told about a
macwester 26 that was at the Royal Quays Marina in North Shields in the
I had been also told it had
been on the quayside for at least 5 to 7 years and could be for sale.
It turned out the owner
used to be a member of the same boating club I myself was in
at South Shields.
A deal was done and so it
looked like we were going to start another Project.
The vessel had flooded many
times with rainwater so the Interior was damp and in poor shape .
ALL the exterior woodwork
was either missing or rotton .Most of the fixings holding the timber
work when raining
were also leaking.Or not
So Ann and Myself decided
it was going to be a bigish project.
1st October 2012
We decided G.R.P. was the
way to go rather than any wood work so I guess we could alter just
about anything we wanted.
We estimated it would take
a full year to complete fully.
Led lighting strips of
lights with just 4.5 watts per 10 mtr run and it will not stop
there navigation lights as well.
Lifting the mast so the
boom is above head height ...Solar charging .....extending the skeg and
keels by 15 inches for windward reasons .... all Sails cockpit
controlled.... new engine ..rudder ..additional standing rigging and
many other ideas. and most of all as maintenance free as possible ..
And all DIY as much as
SO LET'S GO !!!!!
We had to be towed up the
river tyne to the boat club Why ?. Because the rudder had
rusted solid the engine
eventhough it had not
done a lot of hours since being fitted According the the last owners
. But due to the amount
of water in the bilges i Guessed the engine would have been
well flooded a number of times.
The Yacht being picked up
and going into the main marina basin. At the royal Quays Marina on the
29th September 2012
I made a quick inspection
for holes ect through the hull but seeing as it was quite full of fresh
water i thought
it would make the trip.
Brought up the river Tyne
by Glenn in one of his many boats this one was called Delta 3.
A solid steel Vessel..And very powerful ..
The yacht now being
turned around to be placed on the Clubs slipway so as it can be lifted
and placed in the compound ready for works to start...
Placed in position ready
for works to start. 1st October 2012... At this point we did not know what would need to be
done or the scope ofwork that would have to be done.
The first day of rain
soon showed us what had to be carried out Just to keep the
interior dry. So work had to start soon..
Toe rails Fendering and
all Handrails removed it was found that all the fixings were leaking
into the boat
Most of the woodwork was
rotten missing or filed with wood putty. Most fixings were were just
mild steel and not
Deck and Cabin roof
fittings were also removed.
The main cabin sliding
hatch was rotten distorted and leaking we needed to come up with
The front lift up hatch
was leaking badly we tried new gaskets re sealing ...Then removed it
and resealed it with
new fixings and still it was leaking We left the hatch as it was until
we could find another one.
The cabin floors were
soft and again rotton . Full of fresh water and mould it had to be
drained out and cleaned.
1/2" wet plywood covered
with stick on tiles......and in many small peices nailed and screwed to nothing..
Engine oil was also
present so we cleaned the bilges with soapy water until they were in a
The Pipework was and is
to two inbuilt fresh water tanks both were also leaking when we tested
Cabin Bilges cleaned and
recoated with GRP Resin. we at that time had no idea what we were going
to place back
down but decided it would have to be thicker than 1/2"
Either side of the floor
in the above images show the two fresh water storage tanks.
We managed to get hold of
a small amount of old tongue and grooved oak flooring it was
sealed on the underside
with a sort of rubberised adhesive that as it happens turned out to be
waterproof and uv varnish sealed to the top
Ideal for our use.
We also replaced the
broken steps and formed a box that will hold a fire box and cover the
two intended batteries
It will be covered in carpet and the tread areas will be coated in one
form or another with a non slip finish.
All the timber handrails and ALL
exterior fittings now removed.
We sealed all the interior through cabin roof and side deck holes with
small patches of GRP then cleaned out the old holes and filled
them with a Gelcoat filler and then filled over with an epoxy filla.
We started fitting
new toerails larger than before using timber as the formers Grp will be
laminated over the timber across the decks and bonded to the hull Then
again an epoxy filla will be applied and sanded smooth.
Glass fiber now laminated
on to the newly formed toe rails with 5 layers of Chopped strand matting in total and the start of the epoxy filling..
windows and portholes
were leaking the rubbers were perished and the plastic was
crazed..So once removed the openings were laminated from the inside .
We placed a board over
the openings on the outside and built up the thickness inside and a few
laminations over the whole lot.
Epoxy filla again applied to the outside. then ready to sand down..
We now decided that we
would not be making a timber main cabin hatch cover but one from GRP.
Were not expecting to use ANY timber on the exterior As I mentioned before.
Placing a flexable sheet of plastic over the hatch way opening I laminated over it to get the shape for the new hatch cover.
this point I decided it would be a lift up hatch cover rather than a
sliding one. The reason I decided on this was because I intended to fit
a solar panel and thought with it sliding back and forth the wiring to
the panel would not last too long.
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